The Great Dickens Christmas Fair and Victorian Holiday Party opened its Ruby Jubilee season on Saturday, November 23, and once again, the Cow Palace has been transformed into Victorian London. Red Barn Productions, hundreds of actors, and vendors of all kinds transport us to a perpetual Christmas Eve of Charles Dickens’ imagination. The smells of cinnamon crunch almonds and hot spiced mead permeate the air.
It’s not hard to suspend disbelief and immerse ourselves in the fair because everyone pays such close attention to detail: the accents of the chimney sweeps (and their occasional saucy question), the shops where modern conveniences are carefully hidden, ATMs sheltered in Bank of London cubbies, vendors donning period costumes, and actors in character all the time.
Even with a 10am to 6pm run time, it’s impossible to partake of every event on any given day. With at least 10 staging areas, each with multiple performances, no two visits to the fair are the same. Surrender to the experience of wandering around and enjoy what presents itself! My group hoped to see the “Silk Road Caravan.” Instead, we were rewarded with Cy the Sword Swallower who delighted us with his sword skills which he couples with stand-up comedy.
Two experiences are included in the ticket price. First, the Sherlock Holmes Experience has a new mystery this year. Pick up a clipboard, pencil, and instructions from 221B Baker Street, find the five clues spread out across the city and solve them to prevent a murder. Caution, dear reader, this is no easy task.
Tours Of London is also part of the ticket price. The kiosk is just inside the fair near Fezziwig’s Dance Party. Generally, I forgo tours. The enchanting nature of the fair got to me, though, and Mrs. Peerybingle, our tour guide (and director of the Tours Of London group) was invaluable—pointing out artisan vendors and secret fairy doors, and spilling the tea on blossoming vendor romances. For the kiddos (of all ages), there is also a children’s tour of London.
The Fair also offers four add-on experiences with additional tickets needed. Jekyll & Hyde and The Elixir Of Madness asks one to find the missing Dr. Jekyll as part of a pub crawl. The Dark Garden Corset fitting has participants getting into the spirit of the fair’s costumery, while the Port and Chocolate Tasting and a Champagne and Shortbread tasting, new this year, offer sensual delights for adults.
Select attendees who arrive early are treated to two bonuses: First, is the “tableau” in Fezziwig’s Dance Party. Mr. Fezziwig introduces Charles Dickens who in turn introduces the characters we will encounter throughout the day—the Artful Dodger, Miss Havisham, Bob Cratchit, Ebenezer Scrooge, and more. See them wandering the streets of London? Stop and chat! Second, early birds can watch London come to life enjoying the relatively empty streets.
Kevin Patterson, founder and co-producer of Red Barn Productions, strives to keep the Dickens Fair a family affair. His parents created immersive historical experiences, and he and his children continue the tradition. Patterson sees family in the most expansive sense. The Fair is a family of performers, vendors, and attendees. Part of what makes the entire enterprise work is a commitment to the immersive experience. Actors and vendors alike commit to the highest standards of role playing. The results are amazing and unique—the Dickens Fair exists only in San Francisco.
The vendors are an integral part of the immersion. Jennifer Landon, milliner, and owner of Primrose Parlour, crafts one-of-a-kind hats and headpieces from recycled, upcycled, and tiny pieces of art from around the world. Need a hat with a graceful ballerina enmeshed in a spider’s web? Check. Need a fascinator with an octopus or a vintage ship? Check. How about a hat with a Lenticular Frame a la Eadweard Muybridge, and a frozen Charlotte? Check. Or perhaps, Landon’s current favorite: A felted hat with an Artful Dodger figurine, watchface, old photo, and vintage gloves and hanky. Landon offers wearable pieces of art that she describes as “goofy elegance with a little bit of darkness.”
Katherine the Great of Blue Moon Designs crafts utility accessories for every body from upholstery remnants and other materials. She started at the Dickens Fair, like many others, working in another booth before her own Burning Man epiphany led to her signature utility belts. Her pieces are handmade, mostly by her, in a home sewing studio. In addition to the novel designs, the quality of materials and construction in her pieces makes them long lasting garments that are both functional and aesthetic.
Want to make your own vintage outfit? Farthingale’s Tailor’s Supplies is a small company whose owner deconstructed period clothing, made and scaled patterns for modern customers.
The quality of products for sale overall is superlative. Even those who are only window shopping find the carts and boutiques part of the experience. Vendors are helpful and friendly. At Whirlwood Magic Wands, proprietors have a hidden device set-up to make sure the wands can indeed turn the lights on and off (with the help from the kind, kid-friendly shopkeeper.)
Dark Garden Corsetry returns to the fair this year! Showcasing the artistry of their work, live models wearing corsets pose languidly in their windows. Dark Garden’s model choices remind the audience that despite rigid social expectations of the Victorian Era, people have always found ways to express themselves.
Upon arrival everyone receives The Illustrated London Chimes program which includes the stage schedules (check boards outside the stages for updates and changes; the website includes the American Sign Language interpretation schedule). The center of The Chimes is Don Carson’s map of the fair, a work of art itself. Carson, a theme park and virtual world designer, currently has a video of the map being made.
Pubs, puppets, puddings (in the English sense), Santa, sausage rolls, waltzing, high tea, hair braiding, haberdashery, chestnuts, cakes, champagne, charcuterie, cheese, candles, can-can, beer, absinthe, toffee — the fair has something for everyone. Kiddos of all ages can take the new miniature steam train. Yes, real steam, dear reader, in the Victoria Station entrance hall before or after the fair. Also available in the entrance hall are insta photo ops for those wanting to meld past and present. —Patty Riek
THE GREAT DICKENS CHRISTMAS FAIR AND VICTORIAN HOLIDAY PARTY runs weekends from November 23 through December 22 including the Friday after Thanksgiving, from 10am to 6 pm. For those who want to experience it all, The Pickwick Club Season Pass grants entry for all 11 days of the fair and other extras.