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Good Taste: Damansara’s Dungeness crab is hot to go

Lauded chef Tracy Goh adopts a more affordable takeout model for her high-quality Malaysian food.

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After nearly four years in business as a brick and mortar, Chef Tracy Goh’s scrumptious Noe Valley Malaysian restaurant Damansara (1781 Church Street, SF) has switched to an all-takeout model with more affordable prices, including for her show-stopping whole Dungeness crab dishes. The restaurant itself will only be open for special occasions.

Damansara’s chili crab combo, all gussied up. Photo by Damansara

We are now in Dungeness season, which is the perfect time try one (or two) of Damansara’s crustaceans. I ordered a chili crab with rice today as a first-season crab to have for lunch over the next two days. I will also make a broth out of the shells to freeze for spicy crab broth on demand. Hello, future bowls of ramen! The thought of this is truly comforting already.

Each crab comes with four fried buns that are crispy and golden on the outside and light and fluffy on the inside. I don’t know that it would be wrong to call them a form of donut. This would be the hot pick at a potluck for sure. 

I added a couple orders of Goh’s Malaysian nutmeg juice cooler, which comes with ice and a big chunk of lemon that compliments the nutmeg flavor really well. Order from a large menu online or call them old-fashioned style at (415) 914-0931 to get food Tuesdays through Saturdays from noon to 8pm.

Damansara’s Malaysian Prosperity Salad. Photo by Damansara

For those who want to experience the restaurant again or for the first time, Goh is hosting a Lunar New Year Crab Feast there on Feb. 21 for solo diners as well as parties of two, four, and six. The menu also includes her famous prosperity crudo, assorted small bites from the farmer’s market, longevity noodles, and pandan kaya mochi for dessert. Reservations are required and tickets start at $150.

Damansara the restaurant is available for buyouts and also offers catering. Goh is also open to offering private custom cooking or tasting experiences. All of these services can be engaged via her website.

This pivot from daily seated service to takeout orders provides loud evidence that it is really hard for our neighborhood restaurants to survive in San Francisco right now. It’s also an opportunity to try Goh’s delightful food at reduced prices, but don’t take it for granted that it’ll always be around — community support still needs to be there.

Tamara Palmer offers the complimentary Food Book Club and California Eating newsletters.

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