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Friday, April 18, 2025

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CultureFood & DrinkGood Taste: SF's oysters have creatively evolved

Good Taste: SF’s oysters have creatively evolved

Raw, baked, broiled, grilled, even in fab flights: Find these modern bivalves with uncommon preparations.

Good Taste helps you eat better in the Bay. This week, that means literal bays plural, as we take a look at seven of San Francisco’s most creative oyster presentations. Specific oysters used in these preparations vary at some places according to seasonality or availability, but we have all lovely choices on the West Coast.

Raw oysters with fermented chilies, white soy, and tamarind at Copra

Copra

The stunning, two-year old Indian restaurant Copra (1700 Fillmore Street) tops its raw oysters with fermented chilies, white soy, and tangy tamarind. I went without a reservation on a recent Sunday evening and was seated upstairs at a huge table that was twice as big as the three of us needed, and it was so fun to just spread all the buzzingly spicy snacks out.

Baked Point Reyes oyster with garlic, Parmesan, and clams

Morella

Morella (2001 Chestnut Street) has a menu inspired by both Italian and Argentine flavors, which are quite harmonious, as it turns out. The restaurant features a divine baked oyster stuffed with clams and topped with garlic and Parmesan. I wish I had them at my desk right now.

Flight of baked Oysters (Rockefeller, miso-marrow, and garlic) at Little Shucker

Little Shucker

Little Shucker (2016 Fillmore Street) typically offers oysters from Maine, California, and Washington. You can get them raw, naturally, but a flight of baked oysters really hits the spot. LS does them with breadcrumbs in the classic Rockefeller way, plus garlic and a verrrry interesting miso-marrow combo.

K-Oyster with white kimchi, chojang, sesame oil, and chive at Bansang

Bansang

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White kimchi is less spicy than the more common red variety, and it’s a lovely topping for the K-Oyster at Bansang (1560 Fillmore Street). The fancy yet approachable Korean restaurant has amazing sister spots as well: Aji Kiji, a jewel box of a takeout sushi space next door, and Daeho Kalbijjim & Beef Soup, which has grown to have several Bay Area locations.

Bossam + oysters at Ilcha

Ilcha

The tea tower presentation of broiled pork belly, raw oysters, and Korean ssam fixins at Ilcha (2151 Lombard Street) is so creative. I haven’t even seen anything like it in Koreatown, Los Angeles. This is living.

Grilled oysters Suleyman with pork sujuk, chives, and lemon at Dalida

Dalida

Dalida (101 Montgomery Street, Suite 100) tops its grilled oysters with a spicy pork sausage called sujuk, chives, and lemon. There are no wrong orders at this restaurant, but this third example of a surf and turf situation is particularly special.

Broiled oysters with smoky date-bacon sambal butter

The Anchovy Bar

The Anchovy Bar (1740 O’Farrell Street) is a sister restaurant to State Bird Provisions and The Progress, which are around the corner on Fillmore Street. It’s got much more than anchovies on the menu. The selection changes frequently, but the broiled oysters with smoky date-bacon sambal butter seems to stick around. People probably yell if they try to take it off the menu.

Tamara publishes the California Eating website, newsletter, and zine.

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