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Thursday, February 6, 2025

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CultureFood & DrinkSleek Bombay Brasserie offers two worlds of flavors

Sleek Bombay Brasserie offers two worlds of flavors

New Union Square spot satisfies with Chef Thomas George's innovative Indian dishes and French comfort classics.

It all started with a cocktail poured from a teapot, so that was fab.

Sleek and luscious, Bombay Brasserie recently launch in Union Square’s Taj Campton Place Hotel, adding one more reason to head back down to the area for a delicious evening, alongside still-shining old school delights and noise-making newcomers like the nearby rooftop Chotto Matte. Bombay’s stunning main dining room reminds me of the “palace restaurants” of London that I grew up with—carved-wood ceilings and peacock wall-paintings, with striking lotus-flower sconces and a show-stopping frosted glass partition—while its cozy bar area feels like a hipped-up version of a Darjeeling Express traincar, and is definitely somewhere I’ll be popping in for a cocktail with in-town guests.

The restaurant invited 48 Hills to taste Executive Chef Thomas George’s menu, which straddled two worlds: innovative Indian dishes and French classics, a wide enough spread to please both culinary explorers and weary travelers looking for some sturdy comfort. Chef Thomas, who came out to guide us through the menu, manages to subtly push the envelop with starters like a delectable compressed melon salad and gingery crab & coconut soup (both wild favorites of the table) and a fun selection of street food chaats (avocado bhel puffs), share plates (duck samosas), and tandoori selections (truffle paneer), all hits.

Of course, no chef can truly shine unless they master the basics, and an artichoke-edamame korma, prawn mango curry, and “our butter chicken” with saffron and berry pulao went straight to the heart of Indian cooking while retaining some personal flair. On the more French side of the menu, impeccably cooked Australian lamb chops and steak au poivre more than satisfied (there’s lobster Thermidor and Alaskan king crab as well), but we gravitated towards the delectable items we couldn’t really get elsewhere. Rounded off with some hefty sweets, it was a fascinating meal.

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Marke B.
Marke B.
Marke Bieschke is the publisher and arts and culture editor of 48 Hills. He co-owns the Stud bar in SoMa. Reach him at marke (at) 48hills.org, follow @supermarke on Twitter.

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