Sponsored link
Saturday, June 25, 2022

Sponsored link

Food & DrinkGood TasteGood Taste: SF’s new curse-breaking restaurant

Good Taste: SF’s new curse-breaking restaurant

In a Mission District space with high turnover, Handroll Project should have staying power.

After a brief hiatus, your weekly look at food and food makers in the Bay is back! This is Good Taste, and I’m happy you’re here.

Since I started blogging about the Bay Area food scene in 2008, I’ve seen a number of restaurants come and go at 598 Guerrero Street in San Francisco. It was Craig’s Place from 2008 to early 2010, until the owners flipped it to a seafood concept called Ebb & Flow that lasted just six months. Yuzuki Japanese Eatery was delicious and had a very long run, from 2011-2019, but AL’s Deli, which followed from AL’s Place chef Aaron London, only lasted for an eight-month span between 2019 and 2020 and shuttered early in the pandemic.

Outside Handroll Project at 598 Guerrero Street.
The interior at Handroll Project.

598 Guerrero is across the street from the daily lines at Tartine Bakery, and down the street from the always elbow-to-elbow Bi-Rite Market, so there’s no lack of foot traffic. My vibe for years is that something supernatural is afoot and that this has been one of San Francisco’s notoriously cursed restaurant spaces. However, I think that’s going to change with Handroll Project, which opened in the space two weeks ago.

For one, executive chef Geoffrey Lee and his business partner Tan Truong already have a significant built-in audience through their other restaurants, Ju-Ni and Hina Yakitori. It’s the first handroll (temaki) focused sushi spot in the city, and it’s easy to see the potential for inspiring more to open.

It’s also really, really good, as I learned last week when I was kindly invited in for a taste of the restaurant’s glorious Full Monty (not the actual name), a set of 10 handrolls ($95) that is presented one by one like a high-end omakase service. And like SF’s best omakase spots, the set includes luxe ingredients like A5 Wagyu beef, uni, and ankimo (monkfish liver), the latter served frozen and grated over ikura (salmon roe). The menu offers smaller sets, too, and handrolls can be ordered individually; current prices run from $7-18.

Temaki by Handroll Project
Frozen ankimo is grated over ikura.

Handroll Project has been popular right out the gate and currently doesn’t accept reservations, so you’re asked to add your name to a Yelp waiting list upon arrival. Next month, the restaurant is expected to add a substantial takeout menu that will include DIY kits for Dolores Park/your car/your bed. If we’re lucky, this place will be around for a long time.

The food party continues at Tamara’s site California Eating.

48 Hills welcomes comments in the form of letters to the editor, which you can submit here. We also invite you to join the conversation on our FacebookTwitter, and Instagram

Sponsored link

Sponsored link

Top reads

Roe is overturned: Protest today at 5pm at 450 Golden Gate in SF for reproductive rights!

The Raging Grannies, National Mobilization for Reproductive Justice, and other groups put out the call. Also Oakland protest info.

The June election was bad news for Mayor London Breed

That's just one of the many key messages that the news media have missed.

Is James Wiseman still the 7-foot future of Warriors basketball? I think so.

Thursday's NBA draft will bring a wave of new talent. But the team’s former No. 2 pick and injury-plagued center may yet surprise us

More by this author

Good Taste: A guide to the cutest Pride food

A Muppet-esque sundae, truffles, rainbow cake, and more fun treats to spark joy this month

Good Taste: The search for SF’s best veggie burger (and how to make your own)

Starbelly, Tony's, Roam, Uncle Boy's... A months-long quest to find the ideal non-fake flavor ended in the kitchen

E-40 and porta-parties: A teetotaler takes in BottleRock

How the Napa Valley music weekender known for wine and spirits treated a seasoned festival reporter who barely drinks.
Sponsored link

You might also likeRELATED