The moonlight reflected on glassy water is broken by a kayak’s paddle, leaving behind shimmering, phosphorescent ripples. Another kayak passes in the night, then two more, followed by a dozen tight in a pack. Decked out in stringed lights and decorations, the kayaks are piloted by characters in illuminated costumes: an alien’s head here, inflated large and lit by green LEDs; a furry raccoon over there, with a garbage bag in tow to collect her candy. Some passengers are even singing, cheering on the group to join in.
These merry paddlers give an eccentric twist to Halloween, kayaking at night each October 31st to trick-or-treat at Sausalito’s houseboats.
Environmental Traveling Companions, or ETC, is a San Francisco-based nonprofit that “opens the world of outdoor adventure to people with disabilities and youth from under-resourced backgrounds.” Volunteer-based, ETC organizes this annual social event as a reward of sorts for the active members who help the group’s programs thrive. ETC paddlers are trained in water safety, local navigation, and paddling at night.
“We’ve organized a group of guides and their guests to take kayaks from our location in Sausalito and go ‘trick or treating’ at the houseboats,” explains ETC guide Kristy Moulton. “We generally gather in the early evening, and plan to be on the water well after sunset. It’s a way to build community among our guides, introduce our friends and family to ETC, and celebrate the holiday in an unusual way.”
“Celebrate the holiday in an unusual way” is kind of a thing in the Bay Area. San Franciscans make holidays uniquely their own: Crab or chow mein on Christmas, Santacon bar hopping, Easter in the Park, Bay-to-Breakers costumed runners and group centipedes, celebrating loved ones on Día de los Muertos, and the pre- and post- Burning Man parties and decompressions. So why shouldn’t Halloween have a Bay spin to it?
Carrie Maslow is an ETC guide who has paddled the same hot pink kayak since 2008. One Halloween, she donned a pink wig and glittering pink outfit to match her pink kayak. “I just created a hot pink outfit to match,” says Carrie. “There’s also the musician Pink so if people asked if I was honoring her, I just said ‘Yes, why not, also honoring Pink.’”
Paddling in Sausalito conjures a free-spirited past that still whispers to those listening closely. Pass by the houseboat of Shel Silverstein, author of The Giving Tree, or stop to whistle at Otis Redding’s actual “Dock of the Bay.” Here is the seaside den of Prohibition-era bootleggers, vagabonds, artists, anchor-offs, and Mayor/Madam Sally Stanford.
“It’s a lot of fun to be able to participate in Halloween as adults without going to a typical Halloween party. We’re out on the water, which I love,” shares Kristy. “The mood or buzz can be many things, excitement and camaraderie, but also stillness and appreciation for being on the quiet water at night and seeing the lights on the docks and in the SF skyline.”
The ETC kayakers convene at the Waldo Point Harbor houseboats on the northern end of Richardson Bay for the highlight of the evening. Many of the homes are brightly painted, eccentric, serenely nestled beneath their view of Mount Tam. “Don’t say houseboat, it’s a floating home,” one owner corrected me. Many of the homeowners are expecting these annual guests, standing ready at the end of their dock with treats to share. Others seem surprised, but still good-humored, as they scramble to find something to hand out.
“VERY well received by the houseboat owners, some of whom shared drinks and food in addition to Halloween candy,” recalls Dr. Stephen Branz, who first trained to be an ETC guide in 2016.
“It can be a challenge to get the treats to us in the kayaks,” adds Kristy. “Some people reach out to us from the dock, or climb into their powerboats on their docks to reach us more easily. We’ve also reached our paddles out and balanced the candy on them, and one year someone brought a butterfly net. And there’s also the standby of tossing the candy, which is usually successful.”
This year, October 31 falls one night before the New Moon, offering a blanket of darkness perfect for trick-or-treating. So, grab a flashlight and put your own spin on Halloween. And if you happen to look out onto the water that night and see twinkling lights in the distance, that just might be costumed kayakers.
